About halfway between Whitehorse and the US/Canadian border is Lake Kluane. The AlCan highway runs between the shore and the mountains, making for a beautiful drive. Unfortunately, the lake’s days are numbered. Over the course of 4 days in 2016 the Slims River, which fed the lake, suddenly disappeared. When I first heard the story my first thought was “those damn beavers have been up to no good again!” The reality was much less dramatic. The glacial meltwater that fed the river was diverted as it cut a new channel through the ice fields, and cut off the lake. Cut off from the main inflow of water, the lake will likely become an isolated basin in the future, as the water level drops below its outlet to the Kluane River. The lake is a reminder to appreciate things while they last because nothing lasts forever. Not even giant lakes.
Fifteen days and 4330 miles later, we are finally in Alaska!
Along the shore of Kluane Lake is the tiny community of Destruction Bay. The name comes from the wind blowing down all of the structures built here by the military during the road construction from 1942-1943. I suspect the real inspiration comes from the road itself because from this point on toward the border the road goes from bad to really, really bad. Fortunately, there are no pavement markings (or much pavement for that matter,) as you must use every inch of the road from shoulder to shoulder to have any chance of missing the craters, potholes, and frost heaves. And there are times when you just have to grit your teeth and hope for the best. We witnessed parts flying off other vehicles on a regular basis. At times were had to slow to a crawl, but eventually, we made it to the Alaska border. But not unscathed.
The first hint of civilization once you cross the border is the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center. We stopped in to check it out and relieve our bruised and battered bladders. As we pulled in Pati noticed the steering making an odd “clunking sound.” Further investigation revealed that somewhere along the recent potholes and road craters the bracket that holds our auxiliary air pump in the engine compartment decided to call it splits, literally. This allowed the air compressor to drop down onto the steering shaft, and the primary brake line. In the bouncing and jostling the compressor had worn about halfway through the primary brake line!
We conducted some emergency surgery in the parking lot to remove the compressor and inspect the damage. Fortunately, the brake line was not completely worn through. This was good news as we were still about 300 miles from Fairbanks with no cell service and no wrecker service in the area. With any luck, we would be able to nurse the Jeep to Fairbanks for a proper repair. It was getting late in the day, and the Ranger recommended a campground nearby for the night.
Deadman Lake was a pretty ominous name for a campground, but it turned out to be everything you could ask for dry camping. It had very nice, level, gravel sites – some on the water, as well as free firewood, free canoes, and best of all – the sites themselves were free. First come, first served. We enjoyed exploring the lake by canoe. We never did figure out how it got its name. I'm guessing the poor fella was drained dry by millions of mosquitoes. Probably best not to know.
Yeah. It's huge.
Up next… North Pole, Fairbanks, and a change of plans.
Below the Line
Frost Heaves
What exactly are frost heaves? Much of the AlCan is built on very wet soil. When water freezes, it expands. So, every winter when the temperatures drop well into negative digits the soil freezes, expands, and pushes up the road surface. In the spring it all thaws out and settles back in, but very unevenly, resulting in frost heaves. But to really understand you need to experience them – check out this video to get the idea. Now imagine driving on this for hundreds and hundreds of miles – while also dodging potholes, bison, elk, other travelers, moose, bears, and the occasional wolf! They are no joke and can yeet you and all you hold dear into an alternate dimension. If you are going to drink and drive in the Yukon, you better use a sippy cup!
Video Credit: George Fadden via YouTube [https://youtu.be/Z85Mn_dUmtw]
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